Monday, April 23, 2012

Stop 10 - Monument Valley, Utah

This is not a part of the Route 66 tour but a detour. It is in fact a 400 mile detour but we thought it was worth it since we were so close to what is often considered the 8th Wonder of the World. We had booked The View hotel some months ago. This hotel is situated within Monument Valley itself, in fact named for its location on the edge of the valley, pointing East, so that it is possible to be there watching over the valley as the sun rises. It was just as well we did book it too because the hotel was full all the way through to August. We witnessed people being turned away as there was no room at the inn!

The drive up to Monument Valley from Flagstaff was nothing to be sneezed at either. The scenery as you can imagine was magnificent and the drive warranted "plenty videoing"!


The whole area is a part of the Indian Navajo reservation and seemed protected by slightly different laws. There was no alcohol allowed to be sold for example but we took our own - we weren't going to watch the sun set and rise without a Bud! Another useful relaxation of law (not official but based solely on empirical observation!) was in respect of the speed limit. Everyone travelling up there, buses included, seemed to be doing 80+. When in Rome.......

The Rome analogy is appropriate too when it comes to Monument Valley - this time the "See Rome and...." being the applicable literary reference. I have no wish to be a part of the completion of the phrase but when I am I know I'll be glad that this visual feast was granted to me in this life. It is an amazing place to be and to see. 


We entered yet another time zone change upon entering Utah and lost an hour. Upon arrival at the hotel we checked in and were offered the opportunity to take part in one of a number of guided tours around the Valley floor (either driven around in a large Jeep or on horse-back) OR if we wanted to we could guide ourselves - take our own vehicle with a map and negotiate the valley on our steam. This trip had all been about the latter and so we elected to go solo. We drove a 17 mile round trip on extremely inhospitable terrain throughout the valley. It was fantastic even though you'd have to see the state of our car to believe how much orange dust now adorns it. When I say "adorns" what I really mean is "covers"!

We sttopped now and again of course for fun and frolics. Sean and I did a rain dance at the foot of the Rain God Messa which is where the Navajo did likewise in days gone by.

 When I refer to days gone by I should also point out that the Navajo still actually live there, within the valley itself, with their horses and goats in what appears the most in-hospitable of circumstances. Its lovely to see although not to replicate. I'll take the home comforts thank you.

The Navajo lived in what are called "Hogans" which are huts made from the clay like mud and dust of the valley floor. They believe in balance in all things and even the Hogans are presented as either a male (the smaller more pointed one) or female (the rounder bigger one) - although why they applied the nomenclature in the way they did I don't know.......ahem

There are places to stop in order to marvel at the scenery all over the valley - and this we duly did. A small selection of them below. I really love the first one. I don't know why. It just seems to look so good - to me anyway.






We  took a rest in our room for an hour or so before we braved what they call the "Wild Cat Trail". This is a 3.2 mile self guided walk around a part of the valley. The signs warned that the walk was mild to moderate to begin but strenuous to finish and that one did so at one's own risk, should take plenty of water, should wear appropriate clothing (we had to buy hats for Pand and the boys as they hadn't brought any - "You didn't tell me to" defended Pand!) and should not undertake the task if respiratory problems were a likely issue. It all sounded rather scary so all the more enticing. We did it and it wasn' that strenuous (it probably is in USA terms!)



 At the half way point we stopped and placed under a stone a picture of Pand's father who had died recently. There is something highly spiritual about all Red Indian culture and especially here, so it seemed an appropriate thing to do. It was a nice moment albeit sad. Here's hoping there is something in it.
We were up against it to complete the Trail before the sun went down but fortunately we managed it and as the sun sank in the sky so the scenery bacame full of hues that needed someone like D H Laurence to describe.




We returned to the hotel, organised food in the room and settled down with our beers to watch the sun set from our bedroom balcony.



We were in bed by about 10pm. Lovely as it was to have our two boys with us their presence right then detracted somewhat from the romanticism of the occasion! Bless 'em!

In the morning, at 6.00am we got up having set the alarm so that we could watch the same "fat old sun" (the Pink Floyd fans amongst you will appreciate the reference) rise again.



We left Monument Valley the next morning to make the exact return drive back to Flagstaff from where we would pick up the Route 66 agenda again. Note to self : remember we are now returning to the other time zone so adjust watches accordingly - anyone know what the time is now? I'm getting confused!

In driving Arizona over the last two days we had driven and walked within what are known as The Badlands. What a pleasure.

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