Stop 13 - Santa Monica, California

In fairness to Pand she was the first up at 6am although she was not feeling too good. I got up shortly after and after the obligatory showers we packed up the cases and were on the road by 7.30 am. This was as intended as we had to drive down from Vegas back to Needles where we would pick up the 66 again and this drive alone was going to be an hour and a half. The plan was to then stop for breakfast before commening the final stage of our Route 66 journey proper.

All went to plan and we enetered California from Nevada on schedule and stopped for breakfast. We had actually stoppped already before that in order that Pand could feed the snakes if you know what I mean. Lets hope that they share her love for Electric Lemonade as that is what they would be feasting on today! Cory duly admonished with the expected "told you so" exhortations!

After breakfast we were on our way - back on Route 66. Despite all that Vegas has to offer, for me the simplicity and history of this road offers much more and I was really happy to be away from the playground and back here. I do love this road.

There is not a great deal to say about the road through California. It is almost totally desolate. Its hauntingly beautiful but its just miles and miles of desert. Make sure you always have plenty of fuel and water because on this leg of the journey you just drive and drive on never ending roads surrounded by never ending desert as far as the eye can see. Gorgeous.

We drove from Needles into Goffs, through Essex and Danby to the mountain pass at Cadiz Summit. We stopped at Fenner as it has the only fuel and food for miles so we topped up there. Between here and Amboy theere is lots of roadside public art (basically travellers stop and make messages on the desert from stones) so we stopped to add our own art. We just wrote C + P and S to represent our names. We were warned to be careful because of rattle snakes so we didn't take too long about it!

 

We passed Chambles and continued through Amboy towards Ludlow and on into Newberry Springs.

There were the odd few remnants of 66 and an indication of the desolation of this stretch but generally speaking we just drove and drove through this desolate land and it was everything I had hoped for.

From here it was past Daggett and into Barstow before passing through Lenwood. From here it was on through Hodge, Hellendale and Oro Grande. Of course we had to stop at the famous Bottle Tree Ranch in Helendale as it has been featured on so many documentaries! We put a dollar in the box left there for the purpose and marvelled at why anyone would do this! They did and ours is not to reason why. There are so many great characters and expressions of them along this road.

From Oro Grande we crossed the Mojave River into Victorvill, over Cajon Summit and down to Cajon Junction.

An interesting little factoid is that throughout the length of the Mother Road you will find the famous Route 66 logo in the concrete of the road and each logo has the name of the State it is in. Throughout these posts I have included a picture of the logo on the road from each State. It is IMPOSSIBLE to find one that has "California" written on it. They all just say "Historic" on them - which suggests the roads have been re-laid or renovated. Anyway this was the best I could do - pity not to complete the set!

We drove into Devore then into San Bernadino and then on through Rialto, Fontana, Rancho Cucamonga, Upland, Claremont, La Verne, San Dimas, Glendora, Azusa, Irwindale, Duarte, Monrovia and into Pasadena, which is a very substantial and very affluent looking town. I'm not sure I'd like to shop there though. All of this section was done on one road - Foothills Blvd.


Don't ever assume that if you are given an address "Foothill Boulevard" in California that you could find what you were looking for. This road lasts for miles - I reckon about 40 miles and just crosses intersection after intersection, traffic light after traffic light. This was a precursor of what was to come as we drove towards Los Angeles. We drove right through West Hollywood and Beverly Hills (we saw the big letters on the mountain) and out of LA. Los Angeles is a HELL HOLE to drive through. It is congested beyond belief. There was a Dodgers game about to start as we arrived in it and no doubt that contributed significantly to the grid-lock although the "Anti Grid Lock" signs at the side of the road suggested this was not an uncommon occurence. It took us an hour to drive 300 yards (no exaggeration) and all in all the last 20 miles of our journey took us 2hrs 45mins all because of LA. Despite the fame that surrounds this part of the world I wouldn't want to live here for all the tea in China! It is a pity that this experience (which is the only one of its kind along the whole 3000 miles of the journey) somewhat detracts from the overall experience. Its a pity to end the journey this way. That said we eventually exited LA itself and drove down into Santa Monica. We crossed 9th street, got in the left lane, turned onto Lincoln Blvd following the signs for the I-10 until we came to Olympic Blvd.............and then we stopped. That was it. There is nothing official to mark the end of 66 in Santa Monica, not even a sign. In Chicago there were signs that denoted the start of 66 but here .......nothing. Just a map that told us that this very spot was where it stopped - at the intersection of Lincoln and Olympic. We had reached the end of 66.

We had done it. I've driven every single mile that it is possible to drive of Route 66 right across America from Chicago to Santa Monica. It is a drive I have wanted to do since I was a small boy. As such it has been a long standing ambition and I've achieved it. We drove all in all over 3300 miles including the detours up to Monument Valley, Los Alamos and Vegas and every mile was valued.

I feel quite emotional about the fact that this has all been done. And that I did it eventually with my family right there with me. There were two members missing of course. Ben and Sarah were not there and I know that they would have absolutely loved it. I hope they will do it one day themselves but a trip like this is too hard to plan with 6 people - a logistical nightmare with transport and rooms alone. So I am sorry they were not here to experience this and I did miss them - a lot.

But to be here in Santa Monica now, with Pand, Cory and Sean, having driven Route 66 together and having spent so much wonderful time together is a feeling best left not described. I need that poet again. Was this experience all that I expected? No. It was much more. The things we've seen and done. The laughs we've had. The challenges we've overcome. The pleasure that has derived from simply being together doing something so amazing. It has been without qualification the best adventure of my life. I will never forget it. As for these two little boys they have no idea what has really happened or how much they've seen. I know that one day they will. But for now the fun they've had in their own way (going up and down in hotel lifts, travelling on escalators, riding trains, trams, planes and helicopters) has only enhanced the quality of the 66 experience fior me. And as for the driving itself I can only thank those two little boys for NOT ONCE EVER complaining or moaning throughout the whole trip - even though we drove many days for 8, 9 or even 12 hours solid in a car they never complained once. They have been the most perfect travelling companions, the most fantastic company, the most accommodating little men and I have enjoyed being in their company throughout. In many ways I am not looking forward to coming home. As Thelma said to Louise (or was it the other way around?) "Let's just keep going". I wish I could. And if I could I would choose the same travelling companions all over again - they made all the difference for me. A good 50th birthday present? You bet.

Stop 12 Part 2 - The Grand Canyon by air

For our last day in Vegas we had booked a helicopter flight over the desert and mountains and into the Grand Canyon. We'd seen it from the rim at Williams so now we wanted to see it from the bottom as we landed close to the Colorado river. Our whole day was spent in anticipation of this as we lolled on the beach (inside the hotel) and splashed about in the simulated sea complete with wave machines etc.

At 4.30pm we were picked up by our Serenity limousine and driven to the airport to pick up our flight. Serenity is an excellent company and I recommend them. I paid exactly £1,000 for this trip which at £250 per person is not extortionate and the service from them was good.  We were welcomed at the airport with drinks and snacks on the house (I had 2 bottles of Bud to calm the nerves and Pand had two mini bottles of wine to try and dampen the visible enthusiasm!), given a good video explanation of the rules and procedures and then loaded up very carefully into the waiting, blade-spinning helicopter. Then up we went. That in itself was quite a feeling.

 

 Once up there we flew over the sights we had hitherto only seen from the ground and it was as magnificent as one might have expected. We travelled first over the Hoover Dam. We flew low over this amazing structure so we could get a good appreciation of its size. The two statistics that I recall were that it is as thick with cement as it is tall (in order to hold back the volume of water that it needs to) and that its cement content was sufficient to lay a freeway all the way from New York to LA. In fact the cement was still drying and regular probes were made to check the wetness of the cement at the centre. This Dam was opened in 1936 so that in itself gives an idea of the size of the thing!

I took so many photos of it and of the view generally that I could take up the whole of my Blog allowance just posting them on here - so a few representative offerings is all I'm restricting myself to for now. The views came thick and fast.  We even flew over the very spot where Thelma and Louise had jumped off into the Canyon. Brilliant stuff!

And then we landed - in it.

 The boys of course loved the whole helicopter experience and since Cory actually flies them on his Flight Simulator on the computer he even managed to converse in "pilot speak" with our man. It lost me but he seemed to know what the dials were about!

We stayed at the bottom of the Canyon for long enough to drink a mini bottle of Champagne each and to eat the packed snack that came with it - then up went again and enjoyed an amazing drive between the walls of the Canyon itself. Yet more pictures of course.

When we returned to the airport we were offered (and duly received) yet more drinks before being chauffered back to our hotel. All in all from pick up to drop off the whole thing lasted 4 hours. We were back at the Mandalay by 8.30 pm.

Pand was on a high. There was no way she was going to bed yet. First thing was she had to try and win the $1,000,000 jackpot on the MegaBucks slot machine. So as Cory, Sean and I sat at the sides (remember children are not allowed near the gaming area) Pand went off to change our lives. Anyway minus $40 later we gave up on that idea. But there was still a hit needed! Where else but back to the House of Blues for more rock music. Off we went. I had the usual (lager) but Pand was on the "Electric Lemonade" whatever that is. She liked it though and down they were going! We knew we had to get an early start the next day as our last day's journey was going to be our longest - over 400 miles - so a late night was not really what was called for as Cory consistently reminded his mother. He really does have a very old head on those young shoulders! Sean of course thought it was great and I wasn't dicouraging it either as the Bud was going down OK. The entertainment on stage was good and watching Pand shout and dance was just as good too - although teh upturned eyebrows and gathered frown on Cory's young face suggested the essence of disapproval! To be honest it was me who eventually insisted we went to bed. Pand would have stayed for more and more. The experience had really hit home to her - and not in a glib or superficial way. When, during the helicopter ride, she had tears run down her face, then you know there was meaning in all of this - especially so shortly after her father's death. Just being where we were, doing what we were doing, seeing what we were seeing and feeling what we were all feeling was a hit in itself - a huge emotional hit and it made me feel good. I was happy for her.

As we walked through the gambling area on the way to our room Pand convinced me to have a quick go on the Blackjack table so as she took the boys up to bed I duly obliged. I won back what had been lost on the fruit machines earlier (plus a bit more!) so went up to bed a happy man! It was sleep time in anticipation of our last day. Early start tomorrow. Good day today!

Stop 12 - Las Vegas, Nevada

What a place - great and bad. Great is that its unbelieveable. Its HUGE. No it's HUGE HUGE HUGE. We are in one hotel and that hotel alone has casinos, theatres, restaurants. shops, aquauriums, gymnasiums, pubs etc etc and then even after that it remains just unimaginably huge. You can go to a thetare (in this hotel), watch a band (in this hotel), go to the cinema (in this hotel), lie on a sandy beach (in this hotel) and I could go on and on. And then there are the multitude of other hotels -each with all of this and more. Matt & Katie's hotel has a Venitian canal running through it with gondolas floating along - in the hotel. This place is so enormous. Its a sharp shock in many ways. It is the antithesis of the 66, Monument Valley and the Grand Canyon in its essence but it is just the same in its vastness. The essential difference is in its serenity or rather lack of it. The Grand Canyon had a vast serenity. This place is just as vast but it is loud, bright and in your face. It really is one hell of a hit and I will never forget it. Of all the places I have been to in the world I have never been to a place like this. It is in itself a Wonder of the World - seriously.

Where is the downside in all this? Children.

It is not a place for children. They are simply not allowed anywhere. Despite the fact that our two boys are the most accomadating, well-behaved, compliant little boys in the world we are told that they are not allowed here, not allowed there, not allowed anywhere. Las Vegas is amazing, truly amazing. The most amazing thing I have ever seen. But if you have children -  don't come here. It is not family friendly. That's understandable I suppose as it is a den of gambling depravity, superficial oppulence and wealth. Good fun for Pand and me though!!

I played Black Jack before I came to bed and I won. Not a lot but I won. Its a minimum bet of $25 and that's what I won. I was down before I won though - its a scary place!

Now back for a while to the drive here. We left Williams at 8.30 and drove via Ashfork and Lewis into Seligman. Along this road is ample evidence of the old 66 and the devastating effects of the creation of the Interstate as it took traffic away from these once vibrant roadside towns.

For anyone considering this trip and wanting to buy 66 memorabilia my advice is BUY IT HERE IN SELIGMAN at the Route 66 visitor center. We found stuff in here that we had either seen or bought elsewhere that was being sold consistently for less than half the price and the shop was jam packed with goodies and people. So SELIGMAN for ALL 66 PURCHASES!

 This little town is also full of good old Route 66 icons and images. Its a great little place.

 After spending time and money in here (and enjoying every minute of it!) we set off again on what is described as a "golden stretch of pristine 66" through Peach Springs, Truxton, Valentine and Hackberry. This description was so accurate and I would say that this section of the road was the best we'd come across since leaving Chicago and driving it was absolutely fantastic. It took us up high into the mountains and down low into canyons.  These were the mountains we were heading to - and couldn't wait to get there.

Before we reached there we passed loads of great genuine 66 stuff and of course stopped everywhere to photograph them.

We drove around Antares Curve and into Kingman. From there we drove on to Oatman and through McConnico, climbing the mountain past Cool Springs and Ed's Camp to Sitgreaves Pass.  The road was very bendy, very steep and just beautiful. We gazed at the Black Mountains as we drove across the Sacramento Wash and down to Goldroad. Through Oatman we went past Old Trails, through Golden Shores and into Topock. Then we crossed the Colorado River into California.

 

My best advice is make sure you go to Oatman. It is just outstandingly gorgeous - an old wild west town in the middle of a mountain. The whole road in fact was just a wonder.

We drove on into Needles where we re-fuelled, washed and hoovered the car. It was in a hell of a state after driving around Monument Valley and I wasn't going to have it valet parked at a 5* hotel looking like that!

We left Route 66 then and drove North up to Las Vegas. So we had now enetered yet another State - this time Nevada.

 After arriving in Las Vegas we met up with Matt & Katie and went down to one of the myriad bars here for a drink. We had a good time watching an excellent rock lead guitarist there. He was really good.

We then headed off to an Irish pub where we encountered another "Americanism". Sean fell asleep which was fine by us as it kept him quiet! We were told we had to leave if he remained asleep. Awake and running around was fine but asleep not allowed. Were he in a push-chair asleep there would be no problem but a child out of a push-chair was a problem - if asleep.  A child asleep in a push chair was OK. When I pointed out the illoogical nature of this rule I was met with the usual - "This is America and that's the law"! These people are brilliant at "doing". They are exemplary in their marketing and customer service. But as for thinking.....! Many seem to simply follow - sometimes blindly. As I said at the start of this post this is no place for children.

That said tonight all 6 of us are going to a Vegas show. We are going to see David Copperfield at the MGM Grand. That should be good. It will be our last night with Matt and Katie. As I have said before they are a quite lovely young couple and we have grown very fond of them. In many ways I feel quite paternal towards them. I hope they don't mind me saying that. I am after all old enough! I intend to keep in touch as I'd like to know how their life together turns out.

Tomorrow we have booked a helicopter flight back into the Grand Canyon. This time we will land at the bottom and jump out for Champers and a bite to eat before flying back. We have booked a sunset trip so will fly into the Canyon just as the sun sets. Should be memorable.

After that its back to Needles and from there to complete the 66 drive to Santa Fe. For now though its back to this amazing, crazy playground we are in. You really need to see this place to believe it. Hence the paucity of photos. Without seeing the place it would be quite literally unvelievable if it weren't true. But it isn't 66. It's a temporary departure. A departure into a fantasy!

Next and last post will be from Santa Monica the day after tomorrow.